Friday, September 18, 2009

Lions, we've got lions

Around mid-day on August 18 we said our goodbyes at Kalamu Lagoon Camp and flew 20 minutes to Mfuwe, where we were met by a Robin Pope Safaris representative, for the less than 2 hour drive to Nsefu Camp. Nsefu is the oldest photographic safari camp in the entire South Luangwa National Park, having been established in 1951. The camp is still just like it has always been, on the same superb site with the same buildings (now slightly bigger with bathrooms added in the back). It lies on a huge bend in the Luangwa River, actually quite close (down-river) to Kaingo Camp, which is just on the opposite side of the Luangwa River. Nsefu has a striking location with 8 very comfortable rondavels (round bungalows) all with views of the river. Kathleen and I enjoyed a light lunch at the bar, with camp manager Vanessa. There was plenty to see in the way of wildlife, with baboons all over the place, as well as impala, and later on also three large buffalo quite close by at the camp waterhole which is lit at night. My only criticism would be that the rooms are noticeably close to each other, so there is not a whole lot of privacy. I suppose at the time when the camp was first built this was not much of an issue and of course it would be daft to tamper with something as well-established as Nsefu.


A sign with lots of instructions, at the entrance to the S. Luangwa National Park


A dicey crossing point en route to Nsefu Camp. This road is being rebuilt so by next season this ought to be a breeze. Or maybe not.


Not much later, we drove past this small herd of elephant and got a bit of a 'look' from the matriarch


Who summarily proceeded to charge the vehicle, without any warning. Not a mock charge either


A thatched rondavel at Nsefu Camp


And this is what it looks like on the inside


Part of the library, lounge & bar at Nsefu Camp


Two members of the large troop of baboons in camp on the day of our arrival. They never got into the rooms though.

I caught up on my trip report, we unpacked and then departed on an afternoon game drive. At first it was a bit quiet but we saw some good birds, and of course when you’re stopped looking at birds, you also tend to see other things. As a result we enjoyed some very good sightings of bushbuck and kudu. Just before sunset we had a front row seat with perfect lighting, of a pair of mating lions. I did manage to underexpose the photographs, which was a real pity as an opportunity like this might not ever come around again. Nonetheless, the pics turned out not too bad. After dark, we saw several more lions, so all in all it was a most very productive outing. The area clearly has lots of game, as we had expected.


I'm trying to get some photographs of birds in flight, with limited success thus far


I'll keep working on it


This afternoon the game drive was all about lions


This female looked very alert, ready for action


She started off with a few mighty yawns




And then went and woke up her male lion companion who was dozing nearby


She had some plans


It took a bit of prompting


But eventually the old boy got the idea


Lions mating is a quick 'affair' - it doesn't take much more time than to look at this photographic sequence













I did not get the photograph of the lion lighting a cigarette


The next morning, after an early breakfast, we did a short road transfer (in lieu of a game drive) to Tena Tena Camp, for a site inspection. En route, we saw several
more lions, including one very conspicuous on an anthill. Tena Tena is a lovely little camp, with a very ‘classic' safari feel. We looked at one of the large hybrid tents which had a very good view over a waterhole (or at least a marshy area), where there just happened to be a mother and calf elephant pair feeding. Naturally, we took some photographs. This is definitely a camp that would be worth including in a S. Luangwa itinerary. It has more privacy than Nsefu.


A room at Tena Tena


Interior view of one of the rooms at Tena Tena Camp


A different view


Two elephants on the edge of a dambo in front of Tena Tena Camp


A closer view of the two elephants feeding



The patio of one of the rooms at Tena Tena


Lounge area at Tena Tena


The view from the front of the camp; this is an oxbow lagoon - the Luangwa River is just beyond it

At the time we were there, one of the camp employees was setting up in the dining tent


Somehow it was no surprise to see an elephant walk into the background


This morning we also saw many of the Thornicroft's Giraffes


Some fairly big ones




To this really tiny little one


They are really beautiful animals



Even though the taller bigger animals are very impressive...




I think the young one remained our favorite sighting






The lioness on the anthill

She was calling out to other members of the pride constantly


More giraffes...


This time so close all I could get in the frame was part of the neck and head


From Tena Tena, it was just a 15 minute trip to a Luangwa River crossing point, where we took a short banana boat trip across to the Mfuwe/Central sector, and from there a road transfer of approx. 1 hr 45 pst Mfuwe Lodge and the Main Gate, to Nkwali Camp, outside the reserve. Nkwali is a very pleasant and seemingly well run camp (it also serves as HQ for Robin Pope Safaris, whose offices are adjacent), on the banks of the Luangwa River. The camp has spacious thatched bungalows with outdoor shower/bathroom, mains electricity and wireless internet – at least in a few spots. Over the short time we were there, we met some interesting people from Germany (a fellow opera lover, thanks for the hint about Edita Gruberova!) and the UK, enjoyed a really excellent lunch and dinner, caught up on some work and skipped the afternoon game drive. This would be a very good camp for a first and/or last night stay, when starting or ending a S. Luangwa trip. Camp manager Michelle was most helpful and also gave us some valuable insights into the Walking Mobile safaris. Nkwali is definitely a place we would like to return to at some stage. We were very pleased to meet Jo Pope who spent quite a bit of time with us, and who conducted us on a very thorough and extremely fascinating inspection of the Luangwa House and Robin’s House, both of which are superb accommodation options for families or small groups of friends/associates.

Crossing the Luangwa River

A game scout on hand just in case the hippos cause a disturbance


Halfway across


A couple of guests traveling in the opposite direction


En route to Nkwali we saw quite a lot of game including this puku


And several zebras including this rather feisty one



On the entrance path towards Nkwali, we came across a fairly large group of elephants


They were very relaxed and just continued feeding all around us




They are certainly my favorite animal and I continue to marvel at the texture of their hides



They just have so much character


And big ears





Approaching Luangwa House, near Nkwali


The front entrance to this intriguing castle-like edifice


Part of the living room & lounge area at Luangwa House





Interior of the main bedroom at Luangwa House


The massive copper bathtub in the main bedroom


A different bedroom at Luangwa House


And yet another one


Kathleen on the deck in front of Luangwa House


The pool at Luangwa House


A view of Robin's House


Our bedroom at Nkwali Camp


Another view from the open front side of the room

Out in the bush there is no fire department and you can't dial 911...


We kept finding tiny little tree frogs in odd areas in our rooms


This little fellow was hidden in the folds of a robe


Part of the bathroom with the shower on the right, at Nkwali Camp


His and hers vanities at Nkwali

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